Fortunately, Kawasakis have excellent oil filtration systems. If you look at the design of the oil pan, (SUMP), you will notice the influence that the Daytona Speedway had in its design. When up on the steep 31 degree banking all the oil goes to the left side. Kawasaki placed a deep well there and put the oil pump pickup screen down in that well. That screen has a very fine mesh and you should consider cleaning this after a clutch burnup or alot of miles, or if you buy the bike in unknown condition. Its real easy, remove the exhaust, remove 10 8mm hex head screws and the pan drops right off. The pick up assembly justs pushes on and off. Most of the time the pan comes off with the gasket in tact and reusable but you might want to order one in advance just in case. Remember old Honda 350s?, they used no type of a ELEMENT to filter the oil.
I realize I push the Leak Down Test quite frequently, but this can be rationalized to the amount of “BLOW BY” you all are talking about. I agree that blow by getting in your oil contaminates it with carbon particles from the combustion process, more blow by, more particles. It also raises the acid level. More blow by more acid.It also speeds up the oxidation process, more blow by more oxidation, as well as increased oil temps. My belief is a engine that leaks little, has little blow by and a engine that leaks down higher will have more blow by. Again Why I believe that knowing what your engine leaks out at is important. Also the greater the blow by, the less horse power you will make.
A compression test will not tell you this!
If anyone is interested, I will post the procedures on how to leak down a motor, where to get the equipment and how much you can expect it to cost, what is and isn’t good leakdown, and how to correct it. Then you can do it yourself.